Pheran: The Traditional Outfit of the Kashmir Valley
The Kashmir Valley is known for its cold winters, and the locals have devised a novel way to stay warm: wearing a traditional outfit known as Pheran. This long dress is typically made of wool and is sewn in such a way that a Kangri (an earthenware pot filled with searing charcoal) can be easily put inside it to keep the body warm.
The Pheran is a distinctive dress worn by both men and women in the valley. The traditional Pheran reaches the feet, but a newer version reaches below the knees. It is worn over a pooch, a similar garment made of cotton or a lighter fabric. This results in double-layered insulation, with air acting as an insulator. Another advantage is that it protects the Pheran from burning due to Kangri.
The traditional Pheran has no side slits and is made of wool to keep the wearer warm. The woollen Pheran is locally called Pout. In the summer, a cotton version is used for a few months. Intricate embroideries or flower designs are common features of a Kashmiri lady’s Pheran. The embroideries or flower styles are made of thin metal threads, and this type of embroidery is referred to as ‘Tille’ in Kashmiri language.
The exact origin of the word ‘Pheran’ is unknown, but it is thought to be derived from the Persian word ‘perahan,’ which means a shirt. Kashmir has been heavily influenced by Persian culture. All historians agree on one point: Pheran has been worn in the valley since at least the 15th century.
The origin of the Kashmiri Pheran is shrouded in mystery. Some believe the long garment was introduced in the valley by Mughal emperor Akbar, while others believe it was invented by Persian travellers to protect themselves from the freezing cold of Kashmir during the winters.
When the Moghuls invaded Kashmir in the 15th century, the locals fought under the rule of Yusuf Shah Chak, according to history. When Akbar invited Yusuf to Delhi, he was arrested and imprisoned in Bihar, where he died. The Moghul army eventually defeated his son Yakub Shah Chak. Akbar seized the land and ensured that the Kashmiris remained enslaved to their Pherans and a slacker community.
Pheran has become a symbol of Kashmir over the centuries, and every Kashmiri, whether in Australia or California, is proud of its heritage. It is a distinct and traditional dress found only in the Kashmir Valley. So, the next time you visit the valley, don a Pheran and enjoy the warmth and comfort it provides.
